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At Mimi Cheng's you can drink broth made by boiling up chicken bones for 18 hours.
At Mimi Cheng's you can drink broth made by boiling up chicken bones for 18 hours.

Food & Drink

New Yorkers are waiting in line for the hot new trend – broth

The sight of people carrying paper cups along the streets and avenues of Manhattan is certainly not an unusual one. But this season, they don’t necessarily contain Starbucks coffee.A new piping hot trend in beverages is sweeping New York as it freezes in the winter cold: broth.

“OK, we’ll do it together,” says one of the guys in the group.
“On three: one… two… three!”
And they each take a sip from their mugs of hot broth. Their breathe steams up in the freezing cold air as they look at one another and nod with an expression of approval. As if they had been expecting something entirely different.
A girl is nervously ordering at the hole in the wall, while her friend takes pictures on her cellphone.
They laugh once the order has been made.
For some this new broth trend is a refreshing change in the days of vegan, gluten-free, lactose-free, and ultra-antioxidants. The raw ingredient used in the broth is bones – from real animals – and these are boiled until they almost disintegrate.
For others, it is something so natural that the only surprise is that so many people consider it to be a trend at all.

“I was very, very lucky to have a mom and an aunt that came from old world Europe, where they cared so much about food. Broth was a big part of our holiday meals: every Christmas and Easter we’d start with a broth-based soup,” said New York’s new broth king, Marco Canora in an interview with Instyle.

It is in a corner of his East Village restaurant Hearth that he has opened the hole in the wall, called Brodo, for the sale of broth.
Dieticians recognize the benefits of broth for the joints. It is also rich in protein and amino acids, which are good for the digestive system.
The people continue to come, a lot (or perhaps even most) of them out of curiosity to try something that has started to grab the attention of large sections of the US media, but which is still not widely available.
But the appeal of the rich full flavor has spread and a lot of those who have had their first taste are coming back for more.

Or starting to make their own, perhaps?
“It’s kind of embarrassing how easy it is,” says Canora.
“If you cook at home a lot and you accumulate every bone over the course of a month in your freezer, and then pile in a pot, cover them with water about 3-4 inches, boil it for 5-7 hours. Then add the mirepoix—carrots, celery, onion, parsley, bay leaf, and peppercorn, whatever—and boil it for another hour or two. Then you have a delicious stock.”

Brodo

Brodo is no more than a hatch and a window attached to the Hearth restaurant in the East Village – the place that could be considered “ground zero” for the broth trend sweeping New York. Sometimes the line winds all the way along First Avenue – other times you can walk right up and order. Tip: add bone marrow for an extra 75 cents.

Brodo

200 1st Ave, New York

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Gotham West Market

Indie Fresh is a new arrival on the pleasant and hip food market of Gotham West Market, which has picked up on the broth trend. Here it sits alongside freshly squeezed juice and soups. And in line with the other dominant trends, everything is gluten-free and lactose-free.

Gotham West Market

600 11th Ave, New York

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Mimi Cheng's

Mimi Cheng’s, which actually achieved fame for its dumplings, has jumped on the broth bandwagon. Its broth is made by boiling up chicken bones for 18 hours, then adding salad onions. On a smaller scale than the others, but proof that the trend is sneaking into many existing establishments.

Mimi Cheng's

179 2nd Ave, New York

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Last edited: August 2, 2017

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