Places
Madeira tips for foodies
Taberna Madeira Photo: Emma Holmvist Deacon
Madeiran with a twist
One of the best restaurants in Funchal in our humble opinion, Taberna Madeira cooks up traditional food with a twist. Instead of serving the island-staple of fried espada and banana, you’ll get to try this deep sea-fish enrobed in a thin, crisp batter topped with finely chopped onion and a fresh lemon and ginger sauce. Portions are generous, but try to make room for a dessert, homemade by co-owner Ana Rita Macedo’s mother. Ex-architect Macedo has designed the space in a contemporary but cozy way, with walls and ceilings partially covered in hand-tied wickerwork.
Taberna Madeira
Travessa João Caetano 16, Madeira
DC Atelier Photo: Emma Holmvist Deacon
Flavors of the fortress
Perched above Design Centre Nini Andrade Silva, DC Atelier has 360° views across the Atlantic Ocean and Funchal cityscape. The menu is a creative re-interpretation of regional cuisine, and the cafeteria lounge on the floor below – where the atmosphere is less formal but the views just as splendid – serves snacks and drinks during the day. Wherever you decide to dine, you’ll be immersed in Nini Andrade Silva’s minimalist but homely interior design.
DC Atelier
Estrada da Pontinha, Forte de Nossa Senhora da Conceição 9000
Photo: Emma Holmvist Deacon
(Madeira) wine and dine
Located within Blandy’s famed Madeira wine lodges in the city center of Funchal, 1811 Bistro & Wine Bar has an extensive wine list with some 250 Portuguese wines as well as an additional 44 types of Madeira wine, including the exclusive Blandy's 1920 Bual. There’s plenty to choose from the food menu, too – including 22 Portuguese cheeses and a range of charcuterie. You can have a multi-course meal paired with Madeira wine from start to finish.
1811 Bistro & Wine Bar
Rua de São Francisco 10, Madeira
Mussels and more
This nice but casual downtown eatery specializes in mussels, and there are a dozen different variants from Portugal and beyond to choose from. Aside from the classic Belgian white wine and cream variety, mussels come smothered in flavors including pesto, lemongrass, mango and chilli (not necessarily all at once). There are other types of food on the menu, too.
Mula
Rua dos Tanoeiros 37, Madeira
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A fine fusion
Located in the heart of the Old Town, La Ao Fundo focuses on fusion cuisine, combining Madeiran flavors with African influences, for instance. You’ll find dishes such as shrimp Mozambique and cod and couscous on the menu as well as European classics including steak and homemade chips. The white table-clothed restaurant is perceived as a bit of a fine dining option, but prices aren’t too steep (about €15 for the steak).
La Ao Fundo
Rua Portão de São Tiago 17
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Photo: Emma Holmvist Deacon
Rice and shine
Rice in every imaginable form is the order of the day at Riso. Chef Fausto Airoldi has made it his mission to broaden the appeal of this cupboard staple, and he does it with panache and flexibility for each diner’s preferences. Whichever shape your rice dish may take, you’re sure to get an amazing view across the Atlantic Ocean as the restaurant sits cliff-side at the edge of the old town.
Riso, Risottoria del Mundo
Rua de Santa Maria 274
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Piece of cake
The Portuguese have a way with baked goods, particularly the sweet variety. Head to local bakeries Penha DÁguia and Opan to sample Madeiran specialities such as queijadas, a little cake made of sweetened cheese, and the ever-present bolo de mel, the famed Madeira honey cake.
Penha DÁguia
Rua do Hospital Velho 36
Golden Gate Grand Café
For a fancier outing and some good people watching, take a seat at the newly re-opened Golden Gate Grand Café, established in 1841.
Golden Gate Grand Café
Avenida Arriaga 29, Madeira
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Emma Holmvist Deacon 
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